Taft Street Winery

WEATHER REPORT

2011-05-31T08:41:00.000-07:00

Many moons ago the Little Old Winemaker at Italian Swiss Colony in Asti used to say that every year was a vintage year in California. This implied California’s weather was ideal and varied little from year to year. However, in the 30+ years I’ve been in the business I have never seen a vintage which hasn’t been unique.

Mike T. Having said that, isn’t it true that good wine is made every year?
Evelyn. Yes, if growers and winemakers work together they can usually react favorably to any curve balls Mother Nature may throw.
Mike T. So what are these curve balls?
Evelyn. The usual suspects – frost, heat spikes, rain, fire . . . . . . . .
Mike T. Let’s take them one at a time. Frost.
Evelyn. The window for frost is relatively short, from late March to early May, but severe damage can occur. Uneven sets and reduced yields can result, as occurred in 2008 and to a lesser extent in 2009.
Mike T. Rain?
Evelyn. Rain can be a problem. Early in the season rain and cool weather can delay grape cluster development, and chances increase for the appearance of mildew and mold. Rains during harvest can foster mildew, lower sugars and dilute the flavors of the grapes. Not good.
Mike T. Like last year.
Evelyn. Precisely. Fortunately most of our own grapes had already been picked, but several clients lost both volume and quality.
Mike T. And fire?
Evelyn. Not usually a problem around here, but in 2008 the huge fires in Mendocino and Napa resulted in some smoke tainted wines from nearby vineyards. It’s a bigger problem in Australia, where the recent years of drought has increased the frequency and severity of wildfires.
Mike T. Nothing else?
Evelyn. Well, you’ve got parasitic wasps, leaf worms, moths, mites, phylloxera, Pierce’s Disease, powdery mildew, rots of various kinds, deer, turkeys, birds. . . . . . . . .
Mike T. STOP! I need a glass of wine.

Woodshop 101

2011-03-28T12:48:00.000-07:00

Wooden barrels have been a part of making and aging wine for millennia. We commonly think of oak as the wood; but chestnut, redwood, cherry and acacia are and have been used as well. However, oak is by any measure the wood of choice, and we will focus our discussion on it.

Mike Tierney: Why is oak the overall wood of choice among winemakers?
EVELYN: It appears oak has the unique ability to bring components of some wines together in a way that allows them to mature harmoniously.
MPT: American versus French oak?
EW: French oak – Quercus Robur and Quercus Sessiflora – are typically hand split and air dried. Americsn osk – Quercus Alba (white oak) – has typically been sawn and then kiln dried; though some American coopers have taken up the traditonal French method.
MPT: You said we used wood on “some” wine. Why only some?
EW: In some wines the oak will overpower the flavors of a delicate wine, like many of our white wines. We use oak in making our Chardonnay, but not with any other white wine. Oak plays a part in the making of all our reds.
MPT: How about our “Garagistes” wines?
EW: On these wines we use French oak exclusively.
MPT: Any particular brand?
EW: I’m a big fan of DAMY.
MPT: From the taste of the wines, I am too!

Rose Secrets

2011-02-18T10:22:00.000-08:00

Last week we released our 2010 Sonoma County Rose of Pinot Noir. The wine is delicious and we have boosted production in an effort to meet an increasing demand. Rose is no longer a summer – only beverage, and is rightfully taking its place as a year round choice. The reason is clear – Rose can and should be an attraction to the eye and a pleasure to the palate.

Mike T. Rose is quickly becoming a real part of our family of wines. The reason is pretty clear – the wine is a treat – clean, tasty and refreshing. What’s the secret?

Evelyn W. There are a couple of things we do that set our wine apart. The first thing is our choice of grape; Pinot Noir has bright fruit flavors, especially when not overly ripe.

Mike T. Does that mean we pick our Rose fruit earlier than that out our regular Pinot Noir?

Evelyn W. Exactly. We can then accentuate the fruit while keeping the acid levels lively.

Mike T. Then what?

Evelyn W. We keep the juice in skin contact for 8 – 10 hours in order to get the color we want, and then we have the wine go through a slow cold fermentation.

Mike T. A traditional process for Rose production is known as “saignee,” whereby red grapes are crushed and left on their skins for hours, then a certain amount is “bled” off to make Rose. The rest is made into red wine. Why not use that method?

Evelyn W. Mostly because the main effort in that procedure is concentrated on the red wine production. The grapes
are picked at optimum conditions for the red wine, usually too ripe for rose.

Mike T. So now we know.

Conversation with Evelyn

2011-01-24T10:35:00.000-08:00

While driving to work this morning I passed a number of wineries, all seeming to be in the midst of a deep winter slumber. The vibe is certainly different from the frenzy of harvest time; but underneath this perception of inactivity, I know much is going on. A talk with Evelyn should clarify things.

Mike T: Many people believe that after harvest, the wine gently matures during the winter months, while the winemakers (and their staff) spend their time in Hawaii (or shopping at the mall). True?

Evelyn W: Yeah, right. Actually there is more than enough to do.

Mike T: Like?

Evelyn W: Let’s start with house cleaning. Equipment gets used over and over again during harvest. We finally have the time to clean, repair and store the equipment properly. Then there is the ongoing task of topping wine barrels of older vintages; finishing malolactic fermentation in the new red wines; heat and cold stabilizing the new whites in preparation for bottling; blending wines in preparation for spring bottling; preparing the bottling line and refurbishing the bottling room.

Mike T: Wow!

Evelyn W: I’m only getting started. One of the most difficult tasks is the scheduling of our spring and summer bottling. Our own wine takes precedence in the schedule, but we bottle dozens of wines for clients, and it’s no easy task creating a workable schedule.

Mike T: How about winemaking?

Evelyn W: That where the fun begins. We have been doing lab analyses on the new wines and we are starting to come to grips with the qualities of the 2010 wines.

Mike T: First reactions to any of the wines?

Evelyn W: We’ve taken a good look at each lot of the 2010 Chardonnays, and I’m quite pleased with what I see. The wines fermented completely dry, and the acid levels are good.

Mike T: So Waikiki (or even Codding Town) is not in your plans?

Evelyn W: Just as soon as I finish my “To Do” list.

Mid-Month Musings

2010-09-18T15:27:00.000-07:00

Harvest has finally arrived (sort of). We took in 5 tons of Pinot Gris on Monday (September 13th); but here we are on the 16th of September with nothing more to show for ourselves. That will change, as tomorrow we expect a significant amount of Pinot Noir. Things should change big time next week, especially if some rain arrives as predicted over the weekend. Another very untypical harvest season.

We had a great time at the 15th annual Tomato Fest, held last weekend at our Dry Creek Valley home. Over 90 friends of the tomato gathered with heirloom tomatoes from as far away as Delaware(!) to taste tomatoes, eat tomato based dishes, and enjoy Taft Street wines.

We lucked out on the weather, with perhaps the year’s most glorious day – temperature in the low 80’s, with a warm evening, and no yellow jackets (a rarity for this time of year).

With summer fading quickly and the days noticeably getting shorter, our focus alters with the season. The next month is semi organized chaos, as grapes come in when ripe – not necessarily when we can handle them most easily. Somehow it all gets done, and sometime late in October or early November it will all be over and we will breathe a collective and exhaustive sigh of relief.

It’s also pedal to the metal time in the kitchen, as preserving the season’s produce is the order of the day. With apple cider vinegar and verjus completed, the major tasks ahead include canning 100+ pounds of tomatoes, and drying figs from five fig trees. Somehow, our brains got obsessed with figs and we ended up with 5 trees – 4 too many. Fortunately we have some friends who make chutneys/jams with whatever we don’t dry.
The last remaining garden job is harvesting our own vineyard. Our Syrah came in at 21.9 brix yesterday. We like to pick at 22.5 – 23.0, so it looks like Sunday or Monday, depending on the weather. This year we will make a Rose for the first time. We are quite excited about the project, especially since my brother John will be helping in the winemaking. An added bonus is the wine should be ready for this holiday season!

Another chapter.

Cheers,
Mike Tierney

MIDSUMMER DAY MUSINGS

2010-07-22T20:42:00.000-07:00

This is the time of year we look forward to, relish, and then miss when it’s over. SUMMER. Cool mornings and evenings, warm to hot days, concerts at town squares and vineyards, ripening fruits and vegetables, picnics……….aah.

At the moment the first apples and blackberries have arrived, cukes and the ever present zucchini are here, tomatoes are turning red; and in 5 – 6 weeks the king/queen of them all – wine grapes will be ready for harvest.

This past weekend we took a stroll down memory lane and spent a few days at the Russian River, watching my grandson and his seven cousins frolic in the river, hour after hour, much as we did many moons ago. I used to wonder how adults could bear just sitting on the water’s edge, talking and reading, while there was a river so close. Kids still wonder about the stranger ways of adults.

Rare proof that the world is not going completely to hell. Word is the legendary dive bar, Monte Rio’s Pink Elephant has been sold and will soon reopen in all its “splendor.” Will keep you posted.

BALI THOUGHTS AT 35,000 FEET

2010-07-08T10:02:00.000-07:00

High over the Pacific on my way from Singapore to Hong Kong, then on to San Francisco and Sonoma County.

A terrific time celebrating Taft Street alum Andy Bartlett’s birthday. Fond memories –

Despite a huge growth in population and tourism, Bali retains its magic. Warm weather tempered by trade winds, mellow people, great landscape (flowers, fruits, rice paddies), and the varied and exciting cuisine.
We had a kitchen staff at the compound, and they were led by Andy’s wife Roz (a graduate of Cordon Bleu and the California Culinary Academy) and a crack Indonesian cook. As a result we enjoyed an ever changing array of Balinese dishes – Nasi and Bami Goreng, Beef Rendang, spicy tempeh, various sambals, Gado Gado . . . and much, much more.
One of the treats of the holiday was listening to the stories of Andy and his mates about life in Southeast Asia back in the days before tourism. In the 1960’s, for example, there were but three flights a week arriving in a Bali without hotels. How times have changed.
To top off visits to beaches, temples, museums, markets, music and dance presentations – every night at the convenient hour of 10 pm – live World Cup on the telly!

All in all, a stellar vacation. And the future is not too shabby either. I’ll soon be back in Taft Street country.

ASIAN ADVENTURE

2010-07-08T10:00:00.000-07:00

We are here on the isle of Bali to help our dear old friend Andy Bartlett celebrate a significant birthday. Andy, one of the founders of Taft Street and its first president, spent years in Indonesia after graduating from Harvard Law School. It was on one of his trips back from Bali to his vacation home in Squaw Valley, California, that the idea of a winery that became Taft Street was hatched.

Kathy and I left our home in Dry Creek last Tuesday, and 23 hours later we arrived in Singapore, via Hong Kong. Here we met our son Matt, daughter-in-law Anne, and Otto. Spent a day in this ultra modern city of skyscrapers, state of the art metro system, and the best fast food anywhere. The city is dotted with funky looking food stalls with rickety tables and chairs, serving an incredible array of fresh, spicy Asian foods. Utterly satisfying. We stayed at the retro New Majestic Hotel, where each room was designed and decorated by a local artist. Ours was the aptly named Pussy Parlour; while Matt and company were lodged in a storybook theme room, albeit with barber chairs, kleig lights and dual bathtubs in the living room.

We arrived in Bali on Friday night and made our way to Batu Jimbar, a compound of luxury estates Andy helped develop in the 1970's.

Wow! Architecturally stunning homes, parks, ponds, artwork, sandy beach . . . . An in house staff, including cooks preparing classical Indonesian cuisine; walks along the beach; kids laughing jumping in and out of the pool from early morning until they drop to sleep right after dinner; time for reading/napping; perfect weather, with tradewinds cooling the 80 degree temperatures.

One could get used to this.

MAY MUSINGS

2010-05-27T18:56:00.000-07:00

Just recovering from two weeks on the road, followed by our biggest President’s Club party ever. Over 200 fans of Taft Street gathered at the winery last Saturday to pick up their wine, enjoy the music of local band Bottle Shock, delight on barbeque, and of course taste a variety of Taft Street’s finest.

Visits to the Massachusetts and Wisconsin markets were both enjoyable and productive. The enthusiasm for the wines, particularly the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was gratifying, and we opened up dozens of new accounts. The fact that these states are particularly attractive this time of year made it even better.

Just finished Studs Terkel’s WILL THE CIRCLE GO UNBROKEN? Interviews with dozens of Chicagoans about death, aging and the beliefs about the afterlife, this was not your summer beach time reading. Written when Terkel was 89 (he died at 96 in 2008), the book shows the immense diversity of viewpoints and beliefs on very fundamental topics. It took quite a while to finish, as I was only able to read a couple of interviews at a single sitting.

The fact that I am quickly approaching my Medicare years made it all the more appropriate.

Next month will be an adventure. My old friend Andy Bartlett is celebrating a special birthday, and has invited a 100 or so of his cronies to help him celebrate – in Bali! Andy was the catalyst who got us all together at Taft Street the late 1970’s, and was our president from 1982 to 1990. There is a photo of the original gang hanging in the Tasting Room. We all look very 1970’s. Kathy and I will meet our son Matt, Anne and Otto in Singapore and then travel to Bali for a 10 day celebration. Will keep you posted.

This weekend we will host a private party at the winery for three dozen Taft Street aficionados. The kitchen we put in last year has proven to be a real asset, and we have a number of meals/tastings planned throughout the summer months. In fact, I am off to the market now.

Cheers,

Mike Tierney

FURTHER SPRING MUSINGS

2010-04-19T17:36:00.000-07:00

It’s spring alright – sunshine and rain and fruit blossoms and weeds and baseball and more.

We threw our April Fools’ Day anniversary party on Saturday, April 3^rd – the only day of the week without pouring rain. More than 125 Taft Street aficianados sipped and feasted on fire grilled beef and lamb, vegetarian lasagna, salad and apple/berry crumble. More than a few corks were pulled, and more than a few cases of our “Heritage” Pinot Noirs went out the Tasting Room door. This will surely become an annual event.

On the road again this week; for three days I will cover the Denver market. I love Denver – when it’s not snowing.

Over the next couple of weekends we will pour our wines at two local spring festivals: the Bodega Bay Fishermen’s Festival on April17th and 18^th; and Sebastopol’s Apple Blossom Fair on April 24^th. Come one and all.

Just finished a biography of one of West County’s most famous residents – Lowside of the Road: a Life of Tom Waits by Barney Hoskin. This unauthorized book traces Waits’ life from his teenage years in suburban San Diego, to Los Angeles and his notorious residence at the Tropicana Hotel, to New York, and finally to western Sonoma County, where he has resided for the past dozen years. The book is an interesting read; one which nicely points out the conflict between one’s public persona and the “real” person. Can they be fused? On this, Waits is an interesting case study.

The next big winery event is our President’s Club annual spring party, scheduled for Saturday, May 15^th. It’s a great time to taste new releases and sit down with friends over a barbeque. Preparations are underway.

Cheers!

Mike

CONVERSATIONS WITH EVELYN #4

2010-04-19T11:42:00.000-07:00

STAFF TASTINGS

Periodically we gather our production, sales and administrative staff for formal tastings. We choose a varietal and compare our wine with six others, often local wines. We taste the wines “double blind;” that is we cover the bottles so neither the pourer nor the tasters knows the identity of the wines beforehand. We have each taster list the wines in order of preference, and the wine with the lowest aggregate score is the winner. Before we unveil the wines, we start with the highest score and discuss each wine’s merits/demerits.

Double Blind Pinot Gris Tasting

Mike Tierney:These tastings keep the salespeople up to date on the competition. What other benefits do you see, Evelyn?

Evelyn White: It’s also an educational tool. By tasting together we develop tasting profiles, whereby we begin to look at wines in a similar way.

MT: So everybody is on the same page – I get it. More?

EW: Yes. Tastings are a natural setting to utilize my experience and training in staff development. For example, we can all look at a “corked” wine, and experience first hand a common but often confusing phenomenon.

MT: In these tastings, how easy is it to identify your own wine?

EW: I’m usually fairly confident, though by no means infallible.

MT: Higher points for Taft Street wines?

EW: Not really. If a wine is well made, I’ll score it accordingly.

MT: Anything else to say about these tastings?

EW: I think they reaffirm the general impression of high quality wines originating in the Russian River Valley appellation. Also, it’s interesting to discover alternative winemaking techniques.

MT: We just had a 2009 Rose of Pinot Noir tasting, and the Taft Street wine was the winner. Congratulations!

EW: Thanks. It’s a great wine to sip while watching a Giants’ game.

MT: Or the A’s. Have fun on your upcoming trip to Chile.

EW: I’ll try.

SPRING MUSINGS

2010-03-22T20:32:00.000-07:00

The most successful Russian River Wine Road Barrel Tasting weekends have just finished. Over the past two weekends we have introduced a pair of Pinot Noirs: a 2008 Mendocino County Pinot Noir (115 cases); and a 2008 Sonoma County Pinot Noir (111 cases). We bottled them with our original (think 1982) label, designed by Maureen Bragdon. These “heritage wines” will only be available on line www.taftstreetwinery.com starting April 1st. Stay tuned.

Gorgeous weather, St. Patrick’s Day, March Madness (two of my alma maters made it to The Dance – go St. Mary’s College Gaels and Cal Bears!) all spell Spring. However, an even more important event is now taking place – the vines are starting to push. Go vines! (update: we're still rooting for St. Mary's)

It has not been a great month for us at Taft Street in terms of health. First, I had some complications in a pacemaker procedure and enjoyed an overnight stay at Santa Rosa’s Memorial Hospital. Then Mike Martini suffered a stroke and a hole was discovered in his heart. A local columnist quipped the event was misdiagnosed – it had long been thought the hole was in Mike’s head! Finally, Laurie Keith, our California sales manager, was in an automobile accident in Los Angeles and her rental car was totaled. The good news is Laurie was not injured. Mike and I are on the mend – both back at work.

Am enjoying the last of a way too short visit from our son and his family from Shanghai. It doesn’t get much better than doting on one’s grandchild. They are off tomorrow, laden with Taft Street wine.

Speaking of China, just finished Peter Hessler’s COUNTRY DRIVING:

A Journey Through China From Farm To Factory. Hessler takes us with him on a fascinating, often hilarious journey by car through a country experiencing dramatic transformation. This is an intimate portrayal of a society by someone who knows the language and culture. Good stuff.

Next week I’ll be talking with winemaker Evelyn White on Pinot Noir. We’ll discuss the grape variety in general and describe the qualities of our two “heritage wines” in particular. Check it out www.taftstreetwinery.com.

Enjoy Spring – perhaps with a glass of Taft Street wine.

Cheers,

Mike

Conversations with Evelyn - Episode No. 2

2010-02-26T13:55:00.000-08:00

This is the second in a series of wine related conversations between Taft Street Winemaker Evelyn White and Mike Tierney.

This conversation focuses on Taft Street’s go-to wine – Russian River Valley Chardonnay.

Mike Tierney: Everybody loves our Chardonnay. We won our second BEST OF CLASS award and the wine has just been released. So what’s the secret?

Evelyn White: Our goal is to make fruit forward Chardonnay with enough oak background to add spice and complexity. No 100% malolactic fermentation; no heavy handed use of new French oak: slow sur lees ageing; no over-the-top Chardonnay.

MT: How do you “use” oak?

EW: We want to produce a balanced wine and I feel a selection of good French oak helps bring out the flavors and delicacy we want.

MT: French?

EW: Yes. French oak seems to work particularly well with Chardonnay fruit grown in the Russian River Valley. It works with Pinot Noir as well.

MT: We hear a lot about great wine originating from the vineyard. In many circles it seems the conventional wisdom is the winemaker’s job is simply to not screw up the vinification process. Your reaction?

EW: Let me put it this way. Great wine starts in the vineyard. We are fortunate that our growers are skilled and experienced. The fruit they bring us is hand picked; with high quality components the job of creating the best possible blend is made easier.

MT: We’ve had great success in each of our last three vintages, yet growing conditions varied considerably. Let’s compare 2007, 2008 and 2009.

EW: Away we go.

In 2007 we had an early spring and warm summer. The light harvest was early and the wines were delicate.

In 2008 we had it all: frost, heat waves, high winds and fire. Another early harvest, which was fortunate because heavy rains fell in mid October. A challenging year, but good wines were made.

The 2009 wines that are now in barrel reflect a virtually perfect growing season. Both the Russian River Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir arrived in pristine condition and are shaping up to be memorable wines.

MT: Can’t wait.

EW: Me either. Let’s try a barrel sample while we check on my daffodils.

MT: Splendid idea.

Musings - February 15, 2010

2010-02-16T19:40:00.000-08:00

Valentine’s Day is past, Mardi Gras is future, and spring has sprung in Sonoma County. I celebrated by buying the first case of 2009 Sonoma County Rose of Pinot Noir.

I took half of it with me and the wife on a weekend trip to Santa Barbara to hang out with Kathy’s sister and her boyfriend. We had the good fortune of being there while the Santa Barbara International Film Festival was in full swing. Saw four films in two days, including a couple of fine films on architect I. M. Pei and Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard. However, my favorite was a film called OUT OF PLACE, about the subculture of a group of slackers in Cleveland, Ohio, whose collective passion is surfing Lake Erie – in winter! The director, photographer, and several surfers were at the screening, and had a discussion after the film. They seemed normal.

So it’s back home for a few days to catch up with goings on at the winery, keep up with the Winter Olympics, and get the garden ready for serious planting. Then it’s off to Hawaii to spend some time with our pal Joe the coffee grower in Kona. We’ve been going there every February for the past few years; a great way to spend a late winter week. While we’re gone, winemaker Evelyn and Laurie will pour our BEST OF CLASS 2008 Russian River Valley Chardonnay at the San Francisco Chronicle’s American Wine Competition Awards Tasting at Fort Mason this Saturday, February 20^th. If you haven’t been to one of these affairs, do so; they are a true spectacle.

Upon our return from the Big Island we will be blessed by a visit from our son Matt, his wife Anne and his lordship Otto – grandson extraordinaire. They’ll be here for two weeks before returning to Shanghai. Can’t wait.

It’s off to the winery now for our weekly management meeting, and then another conversation with Evelyn. I think we’ll talk about how she manages to continually create scrumptious Chardonnay.

Until next time.

Cheers,

Mike Tierney
President, Taft Street

CONVERSATIONS WITH EVELYN, No 1

2010-02-11T12:24:00.000-08:00

This is the first in a series of conversations between President Mike Tierney and winemaker Evelyn White on wine related topics and enjoying the fruits of our labors.

Since we have just released our 2009 Sonoma County Rose of Pinot Noir, the making of rose seems an appropriate place to start.

Mike Tierney: There are a couple of methods of making rose′; “saignee” being the process of bleeding off juice from grapes that have been left soaking in tanks for several hours.

Evelyn White: Right. That’s been the rage recently in certain wine circles. The juice is bled off, and the remaining wine becomes more concentrated as the result of more skin contact. That wine is then used in the preparation of the red wine blend.

MT: But we don’t do that.

EW: No. We treat the grapes solely for rose′ wine production. We let the grapes sit in bins for 12 hours, and then put whole clusters through a gentle press cycle. The wine undergoes a slow cold fermentation in stainless steel tanks in order to preserve the freshness of the fruit. No oak is used.

MT: Other differences?

EW: Yes. We choose a vineyard (or block) with only rose′ in mind. The grapes are picked a bit earlier than our regular Pinot Noir, so they have higher acidity and lower alcohol. The result is a fresh and crisp wine.

MT: You hit this one out of the park. Great color, fruit and balance.

EW: Thanks. Looking forward to enjoying this wine during Spring Training.

HAI FROM NISEKO, HOKKAIDO, JAPAN

2009-12-31T15:17:00.000-08:00

NI HAU FROM SHANGHAI

Sitting in a snug and very well appointed ski cabin in Niseko, several hours outside of Sapporo on the northern island of Hokkaido. It's snowing - not unusual in an area that annually averages over 45 feet; mostly powder, which has made the area an international drawing card for skiers. Far less developed than resorts in California and Colorado, Niseko attracts skiers from Asia and Australia (and the odd Yank).

The skiing is wonderful; and our grandson Otto, five years old and in his fourth ski season, is already going down the Black Diamond runs.

We spent Christmas in Shanghai. Amazing to see Holiday lights in the main shopping areas rivalling those of New York City. However, Christmas day was just another workday for Shanghai as a whole. The city continues development at breakneck speed, and moving about in the cool (mid 30's) is far more comfortable than sweating through heat and humidity.

RANDOM OBSERVATIONS

The Irish. Before leaving home, I had the great pleasure, along with Mike Martini and Kaitlyn, of spend several hours in our Tasting Room with a visitor from Ireland (Mike Tierney) and his son (Mike Tierney). Three Mike Tierneys in a single room may sound excessive, but a jolly good time was had by all.

I was pleased to see evidence of Irish good cheer both in Shanghai (across the street from my son's place), and in Niseko (right up the street).

Personal hygiene. The toilets in Japan are hands down the best in the world. Heated seats, wash and dry options (sorry, no spin cycle) - give real meaning to the term "quality time."

We will finish out the week here; then return to Shanghai for a couple of days before going back to the Land of Taft Street Wine. Sapporo, Tsing Tao, and unfiltered sake (surprisingly pleasant) all have their place, but they do not enlighten the mind nor enhance the spirit the way a glass of Taft Street does.

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!!

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY MUSINGS

2009-12-16T08:49:00.000-08:00

The new web site is up and running. Orders are coming in daily, and even our most uber technoid friends and critics are applauding the style and ease of the site. Remember there are just a couple of days left to order wine for a pre Christmas arrival. Kudos to Jake Martini for a fine job of web design.

We are definitely in winter mode at the winery. Bottling, barrel work, and putting together blends are the orders of the day. Yesterday, Mike Martini, Evelyn and I tasted through some 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir blends. Yummy! We will bottle next spring, and I can’t wait to see this wine shine.

This Friday we’ll celebrate the Holidays with a crab cioppino lunch for the Taft Street staff. One of the joys of winter in Sonoma County is fresh crab, along with some Taft Street Russian River Valley Chardonnay or Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

Our 8 at the Gate wine club day was a great success. Last Sunday wine club members at Taft Street and seven other nearby Russian River Valley wineries were able to take advantage of club pricing at all eight wineries. We were packed all day, and it was great to meet so many new faces.

I am looking forward to this Saturday; when not one, not two, but three Mike Tierney’s will be at the winery. Last year Laurie was at a tasting in San Jose and met a charming fellow from Ireland – Mike Tierney. His son, also Mike Tierney, lives in San Jose. The dad is visiting this week, and they will be visiting the winery on Saturday. We will raise a glass of Taft Street and post some photos on Facebook.

Everyone at Taft Street wishes you a very Happy Holidays. Kathy and I are off to China and Japan to spend some time with our son Matt, his wife Anne, and our grandson Otto. We will return right after the first of the year.

Cheers,

Mike Tierney
President, Taft Street Winery

MUSINGS WHILE IN TRANSIT

2009-11-22T14:42:00.000-08:00

I am sitting in the Atlantic Airport, waiting for my connecting flight to San Francisco. For the past three days I have toured the west coast of Florida, visiting Total Wine & More stores and conducting tastings in Orlando, Tampa, St Petersburg, Sarasota, Ft Myers and Naples. A grueling schedule, but the response to our wines was heartening, and the perfect weather was very welcome. A couple of highlights for me included seeing the after church crowd descend on the Naples store; and bumping into an old friend who once owned a wine shop in Sag Harbor in New York and was now working in Sarasota.

The harvest is over and a calm of sorts has returned to the winery. The bottling line is open for business, however; so there is always plenty to do.

We had a great time at the recent Russian River Wine Road Wine and Food Affair, held the weekend of November 4th and 5th. We had our biggest crowds ever, with over 180 visitors on Sunday. I made and smoked 40 pounds of sausage (over 30 feet!) to pair with our 2007 Russian River Valley Zinfandel Cobblestone Vineyard and our 2006 Dry Creek Valley Syrah St Emydius Acres. Yum!

Later this week it’s off to Phoenix, where we will visit the Total Wine & More stores in the area, pouring our wines and spreading the Taft Street word. The fun just never ends.

With Thanksgiving coming up fast, time is running out on our Turkey Day Special. The focus will be on our 2008 Mendocino Gewurztraminer and the 2008 Russian River Valley Riesling – both GOLD MEDAL winners. Buy six and pay for five (yes, you can mix and match). We pay the shipping! So give Kaitlyn a call (800) 334-TAFT and get your Thanksgiving Beverages.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Mike Tierney

FIRST GULLY WASHER OF THE YEAR

2009-10-21T16:34:00.000-07:00

is upon us. Just after I put away tables from the President’s Club party, stashed cushions and rattan furniture from the decks and patio, and harvested forty pounds of tomatoes – the skies opened. From four to six inches of rain will drop over the next 24 hours. Timing is everything, and this year (and this week) we did just fine. All our grapes are in, and the final arrival (Riesling) began fermentation today.

Our party was a great success. Under overcast skies we enjoyed the music of local band Bottle Shock, ate delicious barbecue from our friend, grape grower and dairyman Dominic Carinalli, and paired wine with appetizers made from our garden. Over 200 people attended the best ever rendition of our fall get together. Check out the photos on the Taft Street Winery Facebook account.

The Gold Medal and Best of Class awards at this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair is continuing to excite retailers and restaurants alike. These winners can now be found in virtually every local wine shop, and many restaurants are featuring one or more of the wines. We are doing our bit at the Tasting Room, where we are offering a case with three bottles of each of the GOLD MEDAL winners – 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay Garagistes, 2008 Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 2008 Russian River Valley Pinot Gris, and 2008 Russian River Valley Riesling – for $195. That is more than 20% off our regular price. Call the Tasting Room (800) 234-8238.

Just had a hectic but productive trip back east last week. On the heels of the Harvest Fair weekend and the hosting of a group from our New York distributor, I flew to Boston for a trade tasting on Tuesday. I was gladdened to note the familiarity retailers and restaurateurs had with our wines, and the reception they had to our current releases. Then it was off to New York City, where we had a couple of very successful days on the streets of Manhattan. Home late Friday night and behind the stove all day Saturday, preparing for the Club party. I slept quite well Sunday night.

We are already thinking about the next event – Una Cuarta Parte Vaca. I mentioned last month of finding a terrific recipe in the new cookbook SEVEN FIRES. The recipe called for a “medium cow, about 1200 ponds, skinned and butterflied.” Mike Martini and I got to thinking about what fun it would be to try this, but in a rare moment of sanity we decided it might be a good idea to try it first on a smaller scale. So the plan is to fire up a quarter of a beef. We’ve talked to local butchers and it’s doable. So on Halloween we will have our annual after crush party with an added attraction

The very next weekend is the Russian River Wine Road’s Wine and Food Affair. It appears we are in the midst of the party season.

Cheers,

Mike Tierney

Further musings while picking my………..fruit

2009-09-17T21:19:00.000-07:00

We are in the middle of harvest, and things are hot and heavy. Today we are bringing in Merlot and Pinot Noir, with more Pinot and Chardonnay coming in the next day or two. Harvest should continue on a daily basis for the next week or so, especially if the weather stays hot as predicted. My Syrah will be harvested early next week. I went through the vineyard again yesterday and the fruit looks good, although there will be some major replanting next year, as Pierce’s Disease has killed several dozen more vines. This grape growing shtick is definitely a work in progress.

The garden and orchard continue to proliferate. The Asian pears are near the end of their run, but the figs are just starting – watch out! The tomatoes are still going full tilt boogie, and fall apples are beginning. We are, however, using the produce. This week we had a couple dozen staff from Bistro Liason in Berkeley visit for a tasting and lunch. On Friday a sales group from Colorado visits; we have our next cooking demonstration Saturday September 26th, our President’s Club party is scheduled for Sunday, October 11, and the Russian River Wine Road’s Wine and Food Affair follows shortly thereafter. The food will not go to waste. As a safeguard I bought another cookbook – TAPAS FOR EVERY OCCASION – to ensure a variety of dishes (and to feed my cookbook habit).

Speaking of books, I am in the midst of a good read – THE PAINTER FROM SHANGHAI, a novel by Jennifer Cody Epstein. This fictional biography traces the life of Pan Yuliang – an early Twentieth Century prostitute turned esteemed Postimpressionist and resident of Paris. Life in Shanghai is vividly portrayed and the improbably story just hums along. Recommended.

Enough musing; it’s time to bottle my pear cider vinegar.

Until next time,
Cheers,
Mike
mptierney@taftstreetwinery.com

MORE MUSINGS . . . .

2009-08-30T10:23:00.000-07:00

These mornings find me in long pants and sweatshirt. The fog lingers well into the day. Very definitely a cooler than average summer in our neck of the woods. Yet the harvesting continues. I’ve already picked and dried several hundred plum tomatoes, am fermenting several gallons of Asian pear cider vinegar, and have dug up most of the potatoes, shallots and onions. On my way to the winery yesterday I saw pickers harvesting Pinot Noir at a vineyard near Joe Swan over on Laguna Road. Many have commented this summer that there has been big fluctuations in temperature just miles apart. Weird.

This week was the last concert of the summer season, and Roy Rogers and the Delta Rhythm Kings played to a huge crowd. It’s always a bit sad when the concert series comes to an end; it’s a sign that another summer is about over.

That time is marching by was brought home in another way this morning. When we moved to Dry Creek Valley fifteen years ago, I would walk down the hill to get the morning paper and see a young neighbor girl waiting for the school bus. A couple of years later she was joined by her younger brother. She graduated, and I saw the boy grow up. This morning the bus didn’t stop. . . there was no one to pick up, as he too had graduated . . . . damn.

Last Friday evening we had a real treat. The Primiato Corpo Bandistico “Citta di Monte Unano” – a 50 piece Italian orchestra – played in The Plaza as part of a Sonoma-Italy cultural exchange program. We enjoyed the music of Puccini, Verdi, Rimski-Korsakov and others on a perfect evening. Sitting with friends sipping an assortment of Taft Street wines, it is hard to imagine a more idyllic scene.

I have just finished a fascinating book – Gang Leader for a Day, by Sudhir Ventkatesh. The book traces the experiences of a graduate student at the University of Chicago during the 1990’s. As a research project he decided to study the world of the Robert Taylor Homes, at that time perhaps the most notorious housing ghetto in the United States. He befriended a gang leader and soon became a frequent witness to the world of crack cocaine dealing, prostitution, drive by shootings, myriad form of hustling, and an odd but real sense of community. Another world for sure, but an intriguing read.

This weekend much of the Taft Street gang will venture out to the coast, where we will attend a winemaker dinner at Sea Ranch on Friday, August 28th. After wining and dining, we will spend the weekend kicking back – reading, walking the beach, and product testing.

Our Facebook account has 245 members as I write, and the numbers grow daily. It’s a real treat to see the rapid growth in the number of friends we have made. Our story seems to be an interesting one, so we will continue to tell it.

The next blog should include a harvest update. I went through my vineyard this week, culling uneven maturing bunches. I’ve got a number of vines infected with Pierce’s disease, but the healthy vines carry a heavy crop. Casual observation of neighboring vineyards indicate it could be a big year.

Stay tuned.

Cheers!
Mike

RAMBLING ON………….and on…..and on

2009-08-13T15:05:00.000-07:00

Warm, smoke filled days indicate the Western wildfire season is in full swing. High summer means tomatoes and Asian pears are out in (over)abundance, and our six fig trees are about ready to bear. Why anyone has six fig trees is beyond me. Grapes are a month or so away. Peppers and eggplant are making their moves, and citrus, apples and squash are not far behind.

We’re going to try something new at the Tasting Room. Every month we’ll work with one of my recipes – a kind of hands on cooking demonstration/lesson. Our first get together will take place next Friday. August 21st, from 3:00 – 5:00 pm. We’ll make fresh spring rolls, using the recipe I picked up on my trip to Viet Nam last month. We’ll pair the rolls with our 2008 Mendocino Gewurztraminer, which we’ll offer at a special price that day. Come and join the fun.

The weekly summer concert series held in the square in Healdsburg is all too quickly coming to an end. Our favorite local musician, Danny Sorrentino, played this week. Danny and his band played at Kathy’s and my 40th anniversary party the year before last. They kick butt. Only two concerts to go, with the great Roy Rogers bringing things to a conclusion August 25th. Nothing says summer like a basket full of fresh food, several chilled bottles of Taft Street wine, and friends enjoying an early evening in the park.

I read a lot. I also collect cookbooks, so I am not much interested in cluttering up the house with old paperbacks. I am, therefore, a faithful user of the Sonoma County library, Healdsburg branch. The library holds the most extensive wine library in the United States, and I go there often to check out wine industry periodicals. I also feed my mystery habit, and in the past couple of weeks I’ve caught up with a few of my favorite gumshoe writers: Lee Child, Ed McBain, Robert Parker and Bill Pronzini. I also read Miles on Miles: Interviews and Encounters with Miles Davis. The book, edited by Maher and Dorr, consists of a series of interviews with Miles Davis, from the 1950’s until right before his death in 1991. A great musician and a very irascible human being. But who cares when you can listen to Birth of the Cool, Kind of Blue, Sketches of Spain, and Bitch’s Brew. Interesting read.

One Sonoma County landmark I can see (almost) from my back porch is the Dry Creek Store – Established 1881. This is the only non agricultural retailer allowed in the Dry Creek Valley, having been around for longer than any zoning restrictions. A few years back Gina Gallo (yes, those Gallos) bought the place, and she has done a fine job in upgrading the food, while maintaining the ambiance – good old time Sonoma funk. The bar is terrific – a tiny room filled with old signs and farm paraphernalia. Excellent Bear Republic IPA on tap. Sipping a tall, cool one while sitting on an Adirondack chair looking out over the Dry Creek Valley is relaxation, indeed.

One of the many good things about being in the wine business is keeping up with the competition. We at Taft Street conduct monthly tastings, where we take one of our current releases and blind taste it against six or seven similar wines, often from the Russian River Valley. Last month we did Zinfandel, and our 2007 Russian River Valley Zinfandel Cobblestone Vineyard won handily. This Friday we are tasting 2008 Pinot Noir Rose. Rose wine has experienced a big upsurge in popularity over the last several years, and we have done quite well with ours. We will post the results on our Facebook/Taft Street Winery page.

….and so on. Come see us next Fridays for spring rolls and wine.

Until then,

Cheers,

Mike
mptierney@taftstreetwinery.com

Reports, Ramblings, Reminisces...

2009-07-30T15:36:00.000-07:00

Without the constant changes in latitudes, hotels, restaurants, and internal turbulence… life just doesn’t seem as varied here on the home front. Notable events seem fewer and farther apart, so I will probably write every other week or so (unless life becomes suddenly a good deal more bizarre).

I have noted how my morning walks on West Dry Creek Road differ from those in Asia. I see a (very) occasional bicyclist or car instead of 25,000 or so elderly folks doing their morning ablutions. It’s also very cold here in the early morning, with temperatures in the high 40’s and low 50’s, a good 40-50 degrees cooler than later in the afternoon. I like it.

This time of year (the last two weeks of July to be specific) is blackberry season. We have a large field of blackberries, and last year our friend Phil cut a meandering path through the field, which has made for easy pickings. It takes only about a half an hour to fill a 3-4 pound can, and the picking is therapeutic (at least for me). You cannot hurry or you will get stuck. The only sounds I hear are the screeching of our resident red tailed hawk. It is all very Old MacDonaldish.

Not all books I read are terrific; Nicolette Hahn Niman’s RIGHTEOUS PORKCHOP being a case in point. Despite the cool title, the condemnation and description of the gruesome corporate pork and chicken industries are not that new; and the description of her newfound life as a steward of the land is a bit too precious for my taste.

Much more to my liking is SEVEN FIRES: GRILLING THE ARGENTINE WAY, by Francis Mallmann. South America’s most famous chef takes one through seven methods of cooking on open fires. His recipe for “Una Vaca Entera” says it all. The ingredients list is as follows:

medium cow, about 1400 pounds, butterflied, skin removed
2 gallons Salmuera ( 2 cups salt, 8 quarts water; boiled to dissolved)
2 gallons Chimichurri

How can you not love this guy?

Last weekend was a full one. On Saturday we attended the 19th annual Wrubarb – a blowout our friends Francis and Priscilla orchestrate every summer. Wonderful food and wine in an idyllic Napa Valley setting; with the chance to catch up on old friendships, many of which go back to the 1970’s.

The next day we celebrated to 90th birthday of my mother in law, Alvina Lyons. Her daughters put together a tribute to a woman who has touched and nourished the lives of many. Another day of cheer.

On another note; in the previous blog I spoke of the demise of a Sonoma County landmark – Red’s Recovery Room. I do not like dwelling on the passing of venerable institutions; I’d rather pay tribute to those establishments that keep on trucking – like the Joe Matos Cheese Factory, located in the boonies southwest of Santa Rosa. The setting is early dilapidated, the aromas barnyard, and the cheese (a topflight cows milk farmers cheese known as St. George) is delightful. Highly recommended.

Let the summer continue. The warm days and cool nights are bringing the grapes to maturity, and the harvest will be here in no time. I’ll have a winery report and update this weekend in the State of the Street section of our website.

Check it out.

Until next time, Cheers to all.

Mike

BACK IN SONOMA COUNTY

2009-07-16T12:44:00.000-07:00

July 16, 2009

How does it feel to return from the exotic Orient with its fantastic foods, adventuresome traffic, suspect air, and nonstop activity?

Pretty damn good, actually. Back to a budgetless land with little water, few jobs, and a dismal economy. There are, however, a few positives. Taft Street wine is widely available (if you know where to look); the first tomatoes, blackberries, gravenstein apples, zucchini, strawberries, cukes, potatoes, onions and carrots are ripening; blue skies, clean air and cool nights are the rule; plus, there are free concerts in the square. The above combinations goes a long way in soothing the soul.

(One half hour of blackberry picking)

Last minute takes on China. Took the MENGEL (high speed train) from Shanghai city to the airport. At 432 kph, the smooth and very speedy ride was spectacular.With time to spare at the Pu Dung Airport, I spotted two bottles of Chinese wine I hadn't seen before. Despite the time (10:00 a.m.) my professional curiosity took control and I tasted the two offerings by Imperial Court: an oak aged white in the "burgundy" style, and a Cabernet Sauvignon. The oak aged white was as awful as anything I had tasted recently, but the Cabernet Sauvignon was very drinkable. Not a memorable wine, but not bad at all. There is hope.

Just finished The Sacred Willow - Four Generations in the Life of a Vietnamese Family, by Duong Van Mai Elliot; a family history from the late 19th Century through the aftermath of the Viet Nam War. I have usually looked upon Viet Nam as either a symbol of United States foreign policy run amok or as an exotic tourist destination. This book pointed out the rich, complex and often horrific period the last 100 years have been. That Viet Nam today can be such a serene and friendly place says a lot about the resiliency of its culture, and is a hopeful sign for all of us.

I read with sadness the closing of Red's Recovery Room, and truly great dive bar in nearby Cotati. Years ago my late brother in law, Arleigh Sanderson and I undertook a quest of visiting as many dive bars in Sonoma County as possible - a true Herculean task. With the possible exception of Monte Rio's legendary Pink Elephant, Red's Recovery Room reigned supreme. Great name, great vibe, cold beer. Great loss.

The weekend is approaching, Kathy is returning home, friends for dinner, and out of town guests next week. Time to get out the cookbooks.

Check out the new Taft Street Website at www.taftstreetwinery.com

Cheers,

Mike

HANOI DURING MONSOON 2009

2009-07-08T07:57:00.000-07:00

What in the hell is an old Irish guy, raised in the fog in San Francisco, doing in Hanoi during monsoon?

Perspiring profusely, among other things.

My birthday was Sunday, July 5th, and I arose early (6:00 am) to walk around beautiful Hoan Kiwm Lake. This particular morning seemed to be dedicated to badminton, and the streets and parks around the lake were littered with shuttlecocks and badmintoneers - young and old, hale and infirm - playing with an enthusiasm quite unbecoming the time of day.

Heavy rain soon scattered the aspiring Olympians, and as I walked around the lake a second time (under the protection of my new best friend - the umbrella), I heard oddly familiar music accompanied by Vietnamese lyrics. Then I saw it. Under a nearby gazebo were dozens of couples, waltzing to taped music!

Where am I?

Hanoi/Viet Nam - places I spent a great deal of energy in my youth trying to avoid. There seems little reason to stay away today. Viet Nam is cool (not literally). The people are friendly, with few hassles in shops or markets. Drivers are maniacal, but not as homicidal as the Chinese. Beer is plentiful and cheap, especially the fresh brewed Bia Hoi Hanoi. Wine is not as catastrophic as it is in China, and we have found potable Bordeaux Blanc and Listrac Rose. The Russian River Valley is represented by a 2006 De Loach OFS Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($110), and a 2006 De Loach OFS Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($150). We'll wait until we get home.

Breakfasts are the best. Vietnamese coffee and tea accompany fresh yoghurt, lychee, dragonfruit, sopadilla (like apricot/persimmon), pomelo, rambantans, star fruit, mangosteen, mango, crepes, dim sum, pain chocolate, pastry and baguettes, cheese selections, bacon and eggs, pho and on and on and on.

We have tried a number of well regarded Hanoi restaurants and have experienced decent to very good French food and good Vietnamese fare. I find I am looking for much stronger concentrations of cilantro, lemon grass, fish sauce, and especially lime. The search continues. I must comment on a feature in the restaurant WILD RICE. One plain stone wall in the dining room had a simple water feature. On the wall was projected a series of classic black and white slides of old Hanoi. Stunning!

July 6, 2009 Maison D'Hanoi Hotel

We left the world class serenity of the Hotel Metropole (depuis 1901) for the maelstrom of Hanoi's old town Huan Kiem District. Whatever you may be looking for can be found here, usually in a dizzy number of variations.With just a couple of days to go, Anne (daughter in law), Lisa (sister in law), Paul (Lisa's amuse bouche), and I enrolled in the Hoa Sua School - good cooking for a good cause. And it is. The school trains 350 orphaned youth as chefs and hospitality workers. It is a non profit organization, which helps support itself by running a cooking school, restaurants, a bakery and pastry shop, laundry, catering firm, and sewing and embroidery workshops. Good stuff.

Our class involved a trip to a major Hanoi market, where head chef Nguyen Phuong Hai pointed out the ingredients we would be using to create our meal: green papaya with BBQ beef salad; fried spring roll; fresh spring roll with pork and shrimp; and sweet black sticky rice porridge. We left the market for the school's modern facility, where Chef Hai and students led us through the meal preparation.The results were amazingly gratifying, and I look forward to recreating the meal at home - in spite of the 60-70 separate preparations involved. This food screams for Taft Street Sauvignon Blanc and Russian River Valley Riesling.

July 8, 2009

We finally found what we have been looking for - authentic Vietnamese food in a fun local setting. The folks at the hotel suggested QUAN NGON, a cavernous building/courtyard jammed with locals. Line at door - good sign. Quick turnover - good sign. Icy beer - good sign. Prompt and friendly service - good sign. Great foot at cheap prices - very good sign! We left the restaurant an hour and a half later - sweating, mouths afire, and deeply satisfied.

I must confess to being a cookbook junkie. What started as a mild addiction has in the last couple of years grown out of control. When my wife joined Sur la Table several years ago, she and her friends provided me with dozens of books to read and evaluate - a most dangerous game as it turned out. Now I cannot visit a place without a cookbook to calm my nerves and sooth my spirit.

So I visited the cookbook section of Hanoi and found a couple of books I already own, and a smattering of books like Betty Crocker does Viet Nam in 30 Minutes. Then I spotted several copies of Bobby Chinn's WILD, WILD EAST. I see that he has lived in San Francisco and even attended one of my alma maters (St. Mary's College), and he is currently the bad boy of Vietnamese cooking. Then I see crossed out lines - this book has been censored!! The book is part narrative ( a plus) and when he gets into Viet Nam war history, he evidently crosses the line. The great thing is that you can usually read through the silver magic marker, and see what the tempest is all about. Signed and censored - what a find!

This morning dawned with a clear blue sky and the lake park was jammed. My favorite sight was a tiny (4'6") Vietnamese woman in a wheelchair with silk pajamas and bright lilac crocs swaying back and forth to the beat of some questionable fusion music. God, I'm gonna miss this place.

Until next time,

Mike

http://taftstreetwinery.blogspot.com/

2009-07-02T07:24:00.000-07:00

NI HOU FROM YUNNAN PROVINCE

There is quite a contrast between the megalopolis of Shanghai and the southeastern province of Yunnan. From the Himalayan peaks down to the rainforest bordering Myannmar and Laos, Yunnan is the most diverse province in China, both geographically and ethnically.

The city of LiJiang is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and also a focus for the Nature Conservancy. At 7800 feet Lijiang is the home of the Naxi people, descendants of Tibetan traders who established a trading center of cobbled streets, intricate canals, and distinctive buildings. Government and world wide agencies have poured tons of money into this area and a major tourist industry has developed. The result is a very handsome old town built and rebuilt with quality materials. However, the economy is now firmly tourist centered, and the shops sell curios and the restaurants are set up to get diners in and out. There is also a two block area reserved for night clubs - a high volume mix of traditonal Chinese music with disco, techno, hip hop and other such trends of which I am blissfully unaware. It was not music to my ears. One of the major tourist attractions while we were there was our grandson Otto. Almost all the tourists were Chinese and a young blonde curly headed white boy was a curioisity indeed. He had his picture taken more often than many of the local attractions, and for the most part he put up with it quite well.

The food scene is interesting. Fresh produce and pork abounds, yet most restaurants offer only average fare. However, we did find superior food at the aptly named Chinese Restaurant. Here we had roasted pork right off the spit; kau yu (bar be que fish in sauce); and baba (wheat flatbread). We passed on the bee babies - roasted bee larvae.

It was in LiJiang that we tested some more Chinese wine. I had unpleasant memories of the two dominant players in the Chinese wine industry - Dynasty and Great Wall. Both, I believe, produce wine of great mediocrity. So when I saw saw Yunnan Red, a Cabernet blend, hopes rose. Sadly, my hopes were dashed, as the wine tasted very much like cherry cola - without the fizz. The search goes on.

After 3 days we were off to Zhongdian - renamed Xannggelila (Shangri-la) by the Chinese government in 2002, undoubtedly to attract more tourists. The name Shangri-la is derived from the 1933 best selling novel by James Hilton, where airplane crash survivors found peace and harmony in a Himalayan valley. Many locations claimed they were the site upon which the book was based, but the government decreed Zhongdian was the place, so Shangri-la it is.

We hired a van to take us from LiJiang to Shamgri-la and en route we stopped at the jaw dropping Leaping Tiger Gorge; a gorge deeper than the Grand Canyon with truly terrifying rapids. We had the breathtaking experience of climbing down and up several thousand ricketty steps in the pouring rain with several thousand Chinese tourists. It got the heart pumping! Afterward, we had a lesson in how local food should be utilized. We stopped at a no named vacant restaurant, where we were led to the kitchen where 8 or 9 baskets of produce sat. We pointed to some things we knew - zucchini, beans, tomatoes, chilies, eggplant- and then sat down to a cold beer. Minutes later an eight course feast appeared. Localvore eating at its best.

So here we are at a 10,500 feet valley with glimpses of 24,000 foot Himalayan peaks. It is cold enough to wear levis and a jacket, and the rooms have fireplaces. Most of the people here are Tibetan and the food and architecture reflect this. Prayer flags and yaks are everywhere.

Dinner last night included braised yak in Tibetan sauce. The meat was terrific- lean and tender, with a wonderfully seasoned sauce. A tough and rather bland homemade bread added little.

Another outing today, with more local food. Tomorrow we put away our warm clothes and head for the heat - Hanoi and Vietnam. We will keep in touch.

For those interested in China today, check out Lost on the Planet China, by J. Maarten Troost. This Dutch born California resident gives an irreverant but often spot-on betrayal of travel in China today. Good read.

Cheers!

2009-06-26T08:52:00.000-07:00

Ni hau from Shang HaiI knew it was going to be an interesting trip when we were told when we landed in Shanghai to remain seated until everyone's temperature had been taken. Six health officials in full space gear then walked the aisles and shot an x-ray gun at each passenger's head, forming a big red X. When it was determined no one was potentially carrying the swine flu virus we were welcomed to China.

What a place! The madness of Asia, but with every modern convenience imaginable. Unbelievable modern architectural monuments next to medieval hovels. The most modern public transport system in the world next to human pulled carts and bamboo scaffolding. Young, affluent people everywhere. Restaurants and nightclubs packed seven nights a week. Hot and humid yet surprisingly free of the noxious truck and diesel fumes so common in really big cities.

My favorite time of the day has been the early hours of the morning. I have been rising before 6:00 a.m. to walk through nearby parks. These meticulously maintained gardens are full of middle aged and older folks who greet the day with a variety of exercise regimens. A very calm scene. In one park near my son's home people bring their caged birds to hang in trees and "socialize" with other birds. The result is a chirping symphony, much easier on the ears in the early morning that crowing roosters.

And then there's the food. Like most major cities, Shanghai has become a foody Mecca, and hot restaurants and celebrity chefs are all the rage. Most of them concentrate on various Chinese regional cuisines, and the result is a huge selection of terrific food at long ago prices. A typical meal with beer and a quality restaurant usually costs less than $15 per person.

Just as exciting is the street food. All over town (20,000,000 is a town?) are tiny stalls selling a single dish. Two of my favorites thus far have been a suberb steam fried pork roll (I've been there three times in four days); and a fried crepe with egg, onion, cilantro, green onions, plum sauce and a thin and delicate pork rind - incredible.

A word on wine. There a many wine shops spread throughout the city, and wine is featured on virtually all menus. Unfortunaterly for us California wineries, it is clear the governments of Australia and the countries of the European Economic Union are subsidizing either the freight or the customs fees. Prices of those wines are little different from their prices in the U.S., while prices on our wines are about double what they are at home. There is some talk about changing the tax structure, which can only be good news, as this is a MAJOR MARKET. In the meantime, Tsingtao and Tiger beers are an adequate substitute.

Tomorrow we are off to Yunnan Province, home of jungles, sacred peaks, fully half of China's minorites - and more great food. My grandson Otto starts summer vacation; his dad Matt starts a sabbattical; and Anne, Lisa, Paul, Kathy and I start another adventure.

Will write again from Yunnan.

zai jian

Cheers!

Mike

GREETINGS FROM TAFT STREET

2009-06-17T12:38:00.000-07:00

Hello world,
I'm Mike Tierney - the president of Taft Street Winery, located in the heart of the Russian River Valley in California's Sonoma County. Taft Street Winery has been making wine since 1982.

We have a monthly newsletter - THE STATE OF THE STREET - which appears on our website www.taftstreetwinery.com . The newsletter updates activities in the vineyards, cellar, markets and the tasting room. This blog will serve another purpose.

I hope to keep a weekly entry keeping folks abreast of my activities centered around the winery. This will include visits to accounts, work in my Syrah vineyard in Dry Creek, travels, and wine and food.

Here's what's up:
Just got back from a hectic week in the Boston and New York markets. The whole sales staff (four of us) worked with our distributors and visited over 150 accounts. Gruelling work but fun, and I think we made a real impact in the market.

The fruit is setting in my one acre plot of Syrah I grow at my home in Dry Creek Valley. So far so good. It has been a cool June and the clusters look healthy. Still a long way to go before a mid September harvest.

Getting ready for a trip to China and Vietnam. My son Matt and his family moved there three months ago, and we miss them (especially our four year old grandson Otto). We'll spend a week or so in Shanghai, then off to Yunnan, and Hanoi. We do a little business in Shanghai, so I look forward to seeing Taft Street on the shelf.

On the food front, we have just about completed a new kitchen at the winery. I do most of the cooking at Taft Street events, and I have a monthly recipe which accompanies THE STATE OF THE STREET. I hope to take some cooking classes in both China and Vietnam, and will keep you posted to my findings and pairings with Taft Street wines.

That's all folks. Hope to write again from Shanghai.

Cheers,
Mike